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36 Hours in Portland, Ore. August 25,2011 | Freda Moon | New York TimesTucked into a small storefront in a neighborhood of tidy lawns and German beer gardens, Cabezon (5200 Northeast Sacramento Street; 503-284-6617; cabezonrestaurant.com) has the unaffected feel of a small-town restaurant. A fish market by day, seafood bistro by night, the place has an easy sophistication; the only distraction from the food — a seasonal menu of fresh-off-the-boat dishes like Totten Inlet mussels with Borlotti beans, chorizo, fries and unctuous rouille ($13.50) and thin-brothed cioppino with Dungeness crab ($20.50) — are colorful glass sculptures with flowing tentacles that hang above the bar like psychedelic jellyfish. (Read the Full Article) |
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Portland & Oregon DiningJune 08,2011 | David Sarasohn | The Oregonian
Cabezon, a surprising fish story of a restaurant gleaming in Rose Park City, is itself pretty unexpected. Tucked into two cozy storefronts just off Northeast 52nd and Sandy — with some outdoor tables if summer ever shows up — it sets out chive blinis with trout caviar, cioppino, and lavender and honey crème brulée, while retaining the kind of warmth of a neighborhood place specializing in pickles to go with the Pabst. And often, if not always, the amiably priced cuisine provides its own bursts of color, explaining why Cabezon tends to fill up even on weekdays. The cioppino itself, beckoning diners in like a summer pool, could draw its own crowd. Thick with shrimp, calamari, fish, clams, mussels and a crab leg, its broth pulses with fennel and aioli, and it can keep a diner busy into the evening. (Read the Full Article) |